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Escape
An almanac of five not-to-be-missed summer destinations in Latin America.
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Spice
The personalities behind the boldest experiments in cuisine.
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Driver’s Seat
Two new models square off in the hip entry-level segment.
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Escape
Summer Escapes
Escape to five Latin American destinations.
They’re just the ticket to perk up the dog days of summer.
By Mark Holston
It’s no surprise that the sun-bathed beaches
and costal resorts of Mexico, the Caribbean and other points south,
from Guatemala to Chile, are especially appealing during the cold
and dreary months of wintertime in the U.S. During summer here,
when there’s little incentive to travel abroad in search of
seaside pleasures, there are still attractions aplenty throughout
the region to tempt visitors who thirst for distinctive cultural
and adventure travel experiences. Our top five picks are guaranteed
to make you rethink your summer vacation plans.
The Dominican Alps
While
its lavish, all-inclusive beachside resorts and world class golf
courses have made the Dominican Republic one of the most popular
destinations in the Caribbean, one of the country’s most distinctive
attractions remains largely unknown and seldom visited. Smack in
the middle of Hispañola, the island the DR shares with Haiti,
the tallest mountain in all of the Caribbean rises grandly to an
elevation of over 10,000 feet above sea level.
Pico Duarte, the craggy crown of the country’s Cordillera
Central mountain range, towers higher than any mountain to be found
in 38 of the U.S. states. It overshadows by far the loftiest peaks
of Cuba, Puerto Rico, Jamaica and other neighboring island nations.
Pico Duarte is surrounded by the Armando Bermúdez National
Park, one of several large protected areas in the country that have
made the DR a regional leader in environmental conservation. Hikes
to the summit, which can take up to three days round-trip, are demanding
and require advance planning. Jarabacoa, the major town in the area,
helps set the mood with its abundance of Swiss-style cabins. Along
the way, visitors can experience rushing mountain streams, three
ecological zones each with their own distinct varieties of flora
and fauna, and that most atypical Caribbean experience, an occasional
hint of frost and ice.
Morelia, Mexico
Located
on a high plateau equidistant from Mexico City and Guadalajara,
the inland city of Morelia has never rivaled such fabled destinations
as Acapulco, Cancun and Puerto Vallarta as an international tourist
attraction. It has, however, long been of interest to connoisseurs
of traditional Mexican culture and lovers of colonial architecture.
The capital of the state of Michoacán, this city of about
700,000 people is small by Mexican standards but large in terms
of what it has to offer the visitor. Perhaps more than any Mexican
municipality, Morelia reflects its Spanish heritage at every turn,
from the presence of an aqueduct that wouldn’t be out of place
in Andalusia to regal plazas and narrow, cobblestone streets bordered
by balcony-adorned mansions and monasteries.
Two decades ago, UNESCO recognized the city as a World Heritage
Site, certifying the cultural importance of hundreds of structures
in Morelia’s 150-block historic center and the significance
of its wide array of neoclassical, Renaissance and Baroque architecture.
A recommended side trip is to Patzcuaro, the preserved colonial
village and nearby lake of the same name, just 45 minutes away.
Not to be missed is a visit to Mexico’s largest zoo, one of
many highlights that will make a Morelia visit truly memorable.
Lake Titicaca
When
it comes to describing one of the undisputed marvels of the natural
world, superlatives are just a starting point for Lake Titicaca.
Yes, this enormous expanse of water high in the Andes sprawls across
the border of Peru and Bolivia and is by far the largest lake in
Latin America—about the size of the states of Rhode Island
and Delaware combined. And, at 12,500 feet above sea level, it is
the highest navigable lake in the world.
But Titicaca is much more than just an oddity for the record books.
For thousands of years, it nurtured Peru’s Inca culture. Today,
the lake is equally important to the Aymara people who populate
its shores and maintain the region’s distinctive traditions.
Visitors to Titicaca will experience history come to life as they
explore ancient Incan sites on the islands of the Sun and Moon and
take in the harmonious melding of indigenous and Spanish cultures
in Copacabana, Bolivia’s major lake city. From Puno, the Peruvian
port that is Titicaca’s largest city, you can make a trip
to the nearby Uru village, where hundreds of natives live in thatched
huts that float on a mat of reeds. Tours of the aging steamships
that once plied the lake on long distance voyages are another of
many Titicaca adventures to relish.
Brazil’s Estrada
Real
Four
centuries ago, Portuguese engineers created The Royal Road to transport
gold from the mines of the Mantiqueira Mountains west of Rio de
Janeiro over hundreds of miles of harsh terrain to the Atlantic
coast for shipment to the king’s coffers in Lisbon. Today,
the gold is long gone, but what remains is just as valuable—a
circuit of bejeweled colonial towns that await the occasional visitor
with an infinite treasure of cultural riches.
The Estrada Real program is an effort to highlight the distinctive
qualities of these destinations. The best-known of these former
mining towns is Ouro Preto, literally a living museum of 18th Century
Baroque architecture.
Just an hour and a half from Brazil’s fourth largest city,
Belo Horizonte, Ouro Preto dazzles visitors with its endless plazas,
maze of curvaceous byways and elaborately decorated churches.
Mariana, a close neighbor just an hour away via a historic railway,
is equally magical, albeit on a smaller scale, with a more relaxed
pace of life and far fewer tourists.
Two others that beg special consideration are São João
del Rey, a bustling city with an imperial air that is home to Brazil’s
pewter industry, and the nearby Tiradentes, a relaxing, whitewashed
reflection of its colonial era origins that is a mecca for artists.
A 30-minute trip on a steam locomotive-powered 100-year-old train
is a passage back in time. The Estrada Real is indeed a royal experience.
Bariloche, Argentina
For those
who want to experience a total reversal of seasons, South America’s
answer to Vail and Telluride awaits in the heart of Argentina’s
remote Patagonia region.
San Carlos de Bariloche, Latin America’s premier ski resort,
was founded and developed over a century ago by immigrants who knew
something about Alpine diversions—hearty settlers from Switzerland,
Austria, Germany and Northern Italy. Framed by the towering Andean
peaks and the expansive, crystalline waters of Lake Nahuel Huapi,
Bariloche complements its privileged location in this natural wonderland
with visually harmonious chalet-style buildings crafted from massive
timbers and stone.
Located 1,200 miles southwest of Buenos Aires, Bariloche boasts
the continent’s largest and most traditional ski resort, Cerro
Catedral, a magnificent combination of human-crafted and natural
features that have been attracting international visitors for decades.
Cerro Otto, a smaller yet fully developed ski run that’s closer
to the city, is perfect for novice skiers as well as those who just
want to enjoy a cognac-laced cup of steaming hot cocoa while taking
in a stunning view of the lake and surrounding mountain ranges.
After a day on the slopes, Bariloche itself offers an impressive
array of shopping, fine dining and dance-until-dawn experiences.
One not-to-miss Bariloche treat is to wander in to any of the town’s
several candy shops, where chocolatiers in neat uniforms concoct
what is surely the best hand-dipped chocolate to be found anywhere
in the Americas.
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